Monthly Archives: January 2013

Day 212: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 15th

Went to class and did homework!!!!

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Day 211: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 14th

Going to class, you realize how much time you have when we used to be in school, and also how easy it is to spend all that time so quickly. Time really flies when you’re studying!

As mentioned, our school organizes activities from Monday to Thursday every week, and the activities change for anyone and everyone. Today, there was a tour to walk up the hills to a viewing point which overlooks the city of Antigua. The walk up was notorious for robberies and muggings, but now the city has implemented tourist police to make sure that doesn’t happen anymore. The city of Antigua feels very safe, but at times you are reminded by the massive assault rifles people are holding that, the country may not be all fun and games.

And other than that, our days are rather mundane. Learning Spanish though, is very difficult for us, especially Alan who has no understanding of grammar at all. It’s amazing that he managed to get by ANY form of education system with so little knowledge of grammar! It doesn’t help that French and Spanish have mucho similarities, and it’s quite hard not to revert back to the French that was drilled into your head (and have mostly forgotten) for almost 10 years.

Our home stay, despite being an extremely lovely house run by an extremely lovely lady, is a bit of an irony. The house is amazing and has Wi-Fi (which most don’t have), but the hot water doesn’t always work! We’ve had to take bucket showers from boiled water using the gas stove…haha old school. Another oddity is that, the lady is an AMAZING cook, but despite she never cooks any protein and we’re always hungry!!!!!! Need to talk to the owner about this!

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Day 210: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 13th

Sunday is our day off from classes, and we didn’t have much planned.

We tried a popular local restaurant, Pollo Campero, and despite the extreme popularity of this place, we felt like it was a subpar Swiss Chalet. The chicken wasn’t too good, and other than chicken there wasn’t anything else on the menu. The fried chicken was alright, but the grilled chicken was so so. Probably the first time, we really thought about Swiss Chalet.

For the afternoon, we signed up for a hike up Pacaya, one of several active volcanoes in the area. It was one of those “easy to do” type of trips for tourists, minimal activity required and easily arranged at a cheap price. Transportation to/from and guide costs $8USD a person! After an hour drive, we were at the foothills of the volcano. Once off the shuttle, we were hounded by young kids selling us walking sticks, and older kids asking if we’d like to ride horses. We kindly refused both, but later regretted our decision…. The sticks were only $1USD, and it seems like a lot of help for the locals as they don’t have much income….

As you start the hike up, the kids with horses follow closely behind you, and the second you stop to take a break they ride next to you and ask if you’d like to rent the horse. The bestest part though, is that the prices start to increase the higher you walk!!! Ha ha, reverse economics and definitely a jerk move, but most people realize that their athletic ability couldn’t really handle the hike up after a bit. Shortly during our climb, we were a bit disappointed with the weather as the clouds came in and smothered the whole volcano, including us!

At the top, you get to walk around the crusted lava that has cooled off from the 2010 eruption on Pacaya! The first time reaching a volcano, it was an interesting experience as the rock formations and everything made it felt very alien from anything you’d usually see. And at certain spots, cracks in the lava crust give off some pretty intense heat because some meters below the surface, molten lava is still flowing!?!? This was when our guide dropped his backpack and whipped out….. a bag of marshmallows!! Haha, we were roasting marshmallows with lava. Awesome!

The views were breathtaking, as the sun started to set amidst the clouds behind us, we were actually ABOVE the clouds (which we walked through), which was pretty surreal. Definitely a half-day well spent!

And even better, we found this Thai restaurant that served some decent curry/pad thai! Another great day in Antigua!

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Day 209: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 12nd

Classes again in the morning, and by the end we can have a conversation with the teacher, albeit a very simple one. The Spanish language and French language is very similar, and at times we had to force ourselves not to actually say the wrong word like “Muy bien” instead of “Tres bien” for very good. We’ll probably extend our lessons from 4hrs daily to 6hrs daily! The school even offers ‘excursions’ from Mon-Thurs, where you can do some more touristy but fun stuff in Antigua, so you’re really never feeling bored.

After class, we headed out to the local market to see what kind of goodies we can get. It just seems like something we like to do…checking out the markets of places we travel to. We got some fresh fruit, obsessed over their fresh flowers, and the STRANGEST thing was that we found this local lady selling some Asian foods like Shin-ramen, bok-choy, wonton wrappers, and even李锦记老抽!!!!! We’re not quite sure who goes and buys her stuff, but we’re just happy because we left with two packages of emergency ramen…haha!

In the afternoon we met up with a few travelers we met back in San Cristobal la Casas in Mexico, who was also here studying Spanish as well. We exchanged travel stories, had an awesome cup of ginger+passion fruit ice-cream and wandered around the town of Antigua.

The streets of Antigua can get rather touristy, but as a place to learn Spanish, it really is great as the prices are extremely fair, interesting people who are all here to share experiences with you, and all these first-world amenities that keeps you comfortable.

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Day 208: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 11st

Having classes at 8am, we actually managed to wake up at 7am, stop over for a coffee and made it to the ‘classroom’ on time! It’s been a while since we’ve gone to school, and it’s even harder to remember the last time we’ve made it to class at all =P

The classroom, is actually a massive garden on the outskirts of Antigua where numerous other students and teachers gather. A table and three chairs was all we needed, and we found a little corner overlooking the whole garden. It’s actually a really nice place to study, and if all classrooms were like that with a 1:2 teacher:student ratio, everyone would do pretty good and not be able to fall asleep in the back like Alan did.

Learning, for the longest time, was not very ‘pleasant’ as it was difficult to garner a sense of giddiness from studying Pareto distributions and finite difference methods for calculation option prices. Here though, even at the end of a 4hr day, we felt like we learnt a lot, and felt HAPPY about learning, which is awesome =)

Our teacher is a middle-aged lady with two daughters, the sort of cheerful and patient lady with a round figure, the sort whom you’d automatically think would make a wonderful mother and a pretty awesome cook. She was extremely patient with us, and made learning Spanish a bit more fun than we imagined it to be. It was great! And after class, she helped us to find our home-stay. The Spanish-school scene in Antigua is extremely developed, with a lot of classes to choose from, and all offer a home-stay option where you can live with a local family and ‘immerse yourself in the local culture’. Oh, and 3 meals are included too!

Our home-stay is really nice, and we think we may have taken over the master bedroom of the owners! The owners are a very nice Guatemalan couple, with the husband working at a water purification company while the wife stays at home and takes care of her grandchildren and cooks up meals for us. There are several others staying here as well, so it is easy to get lazy and start speaking English!

We spent the afternoon in a cozy little coffee shop… studying!! Haven’t been so hardworking for a looong time!

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Day 207: Antigua – Guatemala – Jan 10th

The bus was supposed to arrive at 6am, and our shuttle was going to wait for us with our names outside the bus station. We really didn’t feel comfortable walking around Guatemala City, especially when we don’t understand the language.

The bus rolled into the bus station at 7:30am, and there was no shuttle to be found anywhere. And the shuttle service company only spoke Spanish! Luckily, there was another fellow traveler that knew Spanish and was EXTREMELY helpful once again. He went outside to ask a shady-looking taxi driver for a payphone, but the shady-looking taxi driver just let him use his cell phone… wow so nice! The traveler helped us out, and eventually our shuttle arrived at 9am to our massive delight.

In short, Guatemala City looks pretty ugly. The moment we rolled into Antigua though, everything changed as soon as the tires rolled over cobblestone roads instead of tarmac. Like other beautiful colonial towns, this placed reminded us of Oaxaca, Mexico.

Our hostel was located inside this long walkway off the avenida (Antigua is designed like a grid, avenues run North-South, roads run East-West). The place was cozy and neat, with a rooftop lounge where two hammocks were strung with a beautiful view over several of the town’s churches. We freshened up, and got outside exploring the town. One thing that got us both really excited, was that our guide book and online, there was talk of a Korean restaurant! In Mexico, it’s really hard to eat a variety of food, so we’ll try for it every time we can, be it Korean, Chinese or Indian.

We wandered the city but didn’t manage to find any of the restaurants we wanted, and ended up eating at a ‘pub’ that served curries and chow mein… haha, it was decent. The strange part though, was that they served only 1 import beer, and that was from Brooklyn Brewery!?!? Just a bit strange to see a ’boutique’ brewery like that extending its grasp so far! The town market though, despite being massive and maze-like, was much of a let down without any of the fresh fruits we were thinking of.

The afternoon was spent napping in a hammock, basking in the suns warm glow. And for dinner, we ate bagels at the Bagel Barn, which also has screenings of movies everyday at 7pm! Watching Ben Affleck’s Argo, we headed back to our hostel and were ready for tomorrow.

Tomorrow, we start our week-long Spanish lessons and stay in a home-stay! Excited!

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Day 206: Flores – Guatemala – Jan 9th

By 4am, people in our dorm were rustling and bustling as they were going on their own Tikal trip. By 7am, it seems like most people were already out of the dorm, and we had no choice but to wake up from all the commotion. We were determined to give our travel agency hell, as she messed up our itinerary and schedule.

The first thing we did was to head over to the travel agency to get this thing sorted out, but she wasn’t open even at 10am. Her office hours were supposed to be 9-6, but again this is Guatemala and we were willing to wait. We headed to a coffee shop and had a decent breakfast + coffee, with a view of a nice garden and the lake. We tried again at 1pm, but the travel agency still wasn’t open, and we even asked the stores nearby and they say she opens at 3pm. Okay, great, then why you tell us 9am!! We grabbed lunch, went back again at 3pm, still nobody!!!!

Now we were just furious, but just extremely annoyed. There are many travel agencies on the island of Flores, but this was one that was recommended by our guide book. A French couple was also looking for them, but it was because this travel agency was highly recommended by their guide book and they refused to go to anyone else. The main issue was that this travel agency had an English-speaking person, while nobody else can speak English, and all our tickets are under her travel agency… We had no other choice but to wait. We waited until 4:30pm until we gave up our hope and tried an alternative.

We walked into another travel agency, explained our situation and see if they could help us. Well, turns out the lady didn’t speak English but she understood our problem and helped us out like no other.She patiently tried every number on our ticket, the yellow pages, and even the internet before finding the right ones for both our bus to Guatemala City, and the organized shuttle to Antigua. She was put on hold for 10minutes, and peeled an orange for us to eat. She was so patient, so nice, and SO SO helpful! The highlight of the day.

The problem with last night was that the bus LEAVES the island at 9:30pm, and leaves the bus station on the MAINLAND at 10pm!!! Our travel agent didn’t mention this one critical point…!!!! So with our travel itinerary back on track, we finally breathed a sigh of relief. This time, we waited at the parking lot at 9:15pm… and got on the bus =)

Weather in Flores: This topic deserves its own comment. In the mornings/evenings it gets chilly. When the sun shines above, it gets blistering hot. Storms come and go, and within a span of 1hr we had 1) comfy breeze w/sun 2) light drizzle 3) thunder showers flooding the streets 4) comfy breeze w/sun 5) thunder showers flooding the streets. The humidity was constantly at 100%, despite being the “dry” season, and we quickly realized how much we didn’t enjoy humidity!!

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Day 205: Flores – Guatemala – Jan 8th

Waking up at 4am and packing up for our day trip to Tikal, reportedly one of the most spectacular ruins in all of Mesoamerica. We were outside the streets at 4:30am in the dark waiting for a shuttle that we really aren’t sure what it looks like but were told would pick us up at the hotel. A bus did drive by, but didn’t bother to stop for us at all. 30 minutes went by and by 5am, other tourists began to show up, waiting for their 5am shuttle. Well, we got a bit upset, thinking the guy on the street who sold us the ticket may have just scammed us or something, but eventually the shuttle did come, asked who we were, took the ticket from us and made us walk 200m to another shuttle. Strange, but we got on something and sat in the front seats.

There are MANY stories of armed robberies on the roads of Guatemala, but even more about robberies that happen on the roads between Flores and Tikal, during the dark or even in broad daylight!! Despite being tired, Alan drifted in and out of consciousness, fearing every motorist or bystander on the side of the road. Seriously, who stands on the side of the road or rides their mopeds at 5am??

We arrived into Tikal, grabbed a sandwich and were on our way to a guided tour. Strangely enough, somehow things just seem to work themselves out in Guatemala (note: this will drastically change by evening).

Tikal:

The centre of the classic Mayan period, Tikal is an amazing relic from the height of the Mayan civilization. Inhabited by people from 400BC-900AD, this is probably the most impressive Mesoamerican ruin we’ve seen so far. Located within a massive national conservation area, Tikal is situated in “true” jungle setting making up 50% of the conservation area. We walked well over 4hrs without even seeing the whole complex. Some parts of the complex are still undiscovered, while others are left unexcavated to preserve the biodiversity that has grown around the ruins.

Our guide, Jose, did a fabulous job of walking us through the ruins, and also showing us some of the wildlife and fauna that grows in the region. He even found a tarantula for people to ‘play’ with! We literally walked through the jungle, and really got a sense of how massive this ruin was. And walking up to the highest temple, you get a spectacular view above the tree line, looking over the jungle with several other of Tikal’s pyramids rising above the trees amidst a cast of fog.

The whole Tikal experience, like all the other ruins we’ve been to, is difficult to describe. That being said, Tikal was definitely one of the most impressive of all the ancient ruins we’ve been to on this trip. The only problem is the location, as some people would find it difficult to be in this area!

So after our tour, we took the bus back into Flores to recoup our energy before we take our night bus. We surfed the web, drank a few mojitos and ate a nice meal at the same place we ate yesterday. We went back to the hostel, took a shower, and arrived at the front of the parking lot where were told the bus would come. The bus ticket says 10pm, so we got there at 9:45pm just in case. We waited until 10:10pm, and thinking the bus was coming at 10pm “Guatemalan time”, we went around to ask just in case. They helped us call a phone number after constant urging by us, and the answer was: “The bus already left and is in the bus station in town. It will wait for you there, just take a taxi over now.” …. WHAT? How did we miss the bus?? Problem #1

We asked what the cost of a taxi was, and the hotel concierge said 25Q. We go outside, flag down a taxi driver who’s calmly smoking his cigarette, we tell him 25Q to the bus station (which is not more than 2km away). The taxi driver, unwavering as he takes a drag from his smoke, tells us “40Q”. After a long back and forth debate, we felt like being ripped off and didn’t want to budge, but considering we were in a hurry we had no choice, so we hopped on. The moment we got onto the taxi, some scantily dressed girl from the bar across the street runs across and hops into the front of the taxi. WTF? Anyways, on the mainland (as Flores is a island), the place looks 100x more creepy and security guards walk around with guns everywhere.

We got to the bus station, run inside and asked the people where the bus was….. nobody spoke English, but pointed us outside where we saw nothing but an empty parking lot. A nicer gentleman from El Salvador helped us out by saying “They say the bus already left!” W T F. We looked for the ticket booth, but they were already closed !?!??! Then who the fuck did the hotel concierge talk to?? We felt totally gypped…. The nice man from El Savador helped us to find a phone to call, but nobody picked up at any number the phone attendant found…. A second problem arose, we had to get back onto the island…but we’re out of cash! So we though, maybe we can walk to the ATM and get some money. We asked the phone attendant if it was safe to walk outside, the response was quick and authoritative: “No”. Okay, well now we feel much safer.

Walking outside to fetch a taxi, someone runs up to us and asks if we needed a taxi. Sure enough we did and we followed this man. He walks outside, and opens the door to a red 1989 Corolla, with no taxi symbol and faded out sign on the the side. There’s a lot of talk about dangers and robberies with taxis in Guatemala, but since we knew the route and exactly where we need to go, we risked it anyways. The cab took us to Flores safely, and we had to go into an ATM to pay him back.

We ended up back at the hostel, and the owner gave us a strange look. And we headed straight off to bed in frustration. Tomorrow will be a better day…..

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