Posts Tagged With: Tibet

Day 82: Everest Base Camp (珠峰大本营) – September 7th

Before leaving Shigatse, we visited the synonymous Tashilhunpo monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tashilhunpo_Monastery)

Historical Note: Tibet used to be divided into two, front and rear Tibet. Dalai Lama is responsible for front Tibet, with the centre being Lhasa, while Panchen Lamas were responsible for rear Tibet, with the centre being Shigatse!

The monastery holds nothing against Potata Palace in terms of aesthetics or architectural prominence, but in all other ways they should be equals. Housed within the monastery is the relics of the 4th to 10th Panchen Lamas. No pictures were allowed unless you were willing to pay a $100 fee..no thank you. There’s a lot of history relating to Panchen Lamas, so we’d recommend you do a quick wiki to truly ‘get it’.

On our way to EBC, we once again bumped into the pack of cyclists. It really isn’t easy, riding that far on such high altitude! The ride over to EBC definitely isn’t an easy one, but the roads have already been much improved ever since the 2008 Olympics because of the flame, but the U.N. restricts activity near the Himalayas, so the roads were smooth up until a certain point. Not only were the roads hard to get through, but the numerous gates and passes didn’t make it any easier. Due to the vicinity to international borders (since Everest is split between China and Nepal), and the ever sensitive areas we’re moving around in, we were glad we got all our papers before setting out.

To get to the Chinese EBC, you have to cross through a small town called Dingre (定日), and we grabbed a bite to eat before passing through the border guards.The drive up is only about 130km, but having to wind through numerous mountains and dirt roads, so in the end it took us about 3hrs to actually get there! And on our way, we saw two cyclists packed with their gear winding down the dirt roads with us!! Truly respectable cyclists =P

During the ride in, what really amazed us was the fact that there were VILLAGES within the mountain ranges! They were harvesting wheat and herding yaks. It was truly amazing as the average elevation was well above 4800m, but it was also many hours before the next civilization. Kids would run up to our car waving their arms high, knowing that tourists would bring with them candies and goodies. Our driver said to ignore these folks, as they aren’t poor at all…. but from our perspective these people are already living in pretty languid conditions.

On our way into base camp, we passed through one final village before winding along a river side road. From afar, the sun’s golden glow shining upon the peaks of Everest. Shortly, the sun sets and we were driving in pitch darkness. With the moonlight shining on Everest, our driver gently mentions, “Doesn’t the mountain look like a lama with a large cloth draped over his back?”…. and he was right! Unfortunately it was too dark, we couldn’t get a picture.

And as we got closer to base camp, there were several people standing on the side of the road, waving us down. At first, we were worried since it was dark and cold and thought their mopeds broke down, but our driver told us “They want us to stay at their place for the night.”…. !?!?!? That’s CRAZY…. Tibetans really work hard for their livelihood……

Finally arriving at base camp in pitch darkness, we quickly slide into one of over 50 tents. The host was very hospitable, firing up the poop-fueled (goat AND cow poop) oven and making us some hot tea. The better experience was outside, as we are now at 5200m above sea level, with Everest peering down at us and not a single cloud in the sky. YOU CAN SEE THE MOTHERFUCKING MILKY WAY!!!! There were so many stars, we could’ve created new constellations the Greeks never even seen…

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Day 81: Shigatse (日喀则) – September 6th

We began our trip loading our packs into a Toyota 4500 (Land Cruiser), the synonymous vehicle for travelling in Tibet. These cars are well over 12 years old, but still can take the beatings of the (excuse the pun) beaten paths of the Ali region. Our driver is also extremely awesome having garnered the nickname, “King of Ali / 阿里王”

The first destination was 羊卓雍措, a mountain-lake that reminded us of Lake Peyto back in Banff. Shimmering in a pure coral colour, it continues the tradition of awesome high-altitude lakes we’ve seen so far! It is also a one of a handful of saintly lakes in Tibetan traditions, and we can definitely appreciate its beauty without the added religious importance. With the skies being a intensely shaded colour of blue not seen elsewhere, and add a few picturesque clouds, you’ve got yourself a marvelous view.

Crossing over many mountain ranges, we see the familiar sights of colourful scriptures fluttering in the wind. At the 斯米拉山口, a young girl probably around 12 years old (note, this is a weekday, in the afternoon up in a mountain top) started hustling us to buy some scriptures of our own blessing!?!? Okay…! We couldn’t resist =)

Our driver definitely lived up to his name, knowing how to avoid unnecessary tourist traps, stopping by at remote locales to get great photo ops, and sharing a lot of his awesome stories and personalized opinions. He’s so awesome! Before arriving at our destination, we stopped by a smaller town with a really cool Tibetan fortress. This region is famous for honorably defending against the forward pressure by the Brits coming across from Nepal.

Arriving at Shigatse, the second largest city within Tibet, we checked into a hotel with a bunch of Westerners. What makes these Westerners special was that, they came in a group of 15, had their own entourage of 2 large trucks and all rode their own bikes! Seems like they were on a tour, aiming to ride into Everest Base Camp…. crazy! The only crazier part is, a lot of Chinese people actually do this, and they ride bikes and carry their own food/gear and do it in a group of 1-4. Compared to those riders, these Westerners are riding rather luxuriously…. so much less respectable despite the ridiculous journey… haha.

The even less respectable way, would be going to EBC in a SUV =P

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Mount Everest

WE ARE AT THE FOOTHILLS OF MOUNT EVEREST.

5250m altitude…. No altitude sickness and still have telephone connection =)
It’s a bit late, will update tomorrow!

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Day 80: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 5th

In the morning, both of us felt slightly worst than the day before and figured we should see the doctor again. We went into the Military Police Hospital, which serves both the public and the military police. The nurses here rock! And the doctors use different medicines, so afterwards we both felt better after the IV treatment, yay!

Through a stroke of luck, we managed to find another couple looking to head into the Ali region with similar interests, and we booked our 15-17day trip, departing tomorrow! Awesome!

We spent the rest of the day preparing meds and foods for the trip, as the average altitude will be around 4200m above sea level. The trip includes many scenic lakes, Everest Base Camp, numerous glaciers and even some wildlife sightings (real wildlife, untamed by mankind).

Can’t wait! Finally we can get back on the road!

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Day 79: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 4th

Visiting the Potala Palace, which is one part of the UNESCO world heritage site broadly labeled “The Historic Ensemble of Potala Palace”, which also includes a separate ‘summer palace’ and the Jokhang monastery. Aesthetically, Potala Palace is really impressive, with its long staircase, atonal buildings and red/white colour palette.

The walk up was not that bad except it being a bit hot, and no liquids were allowed except for over-priced water sold at the very top. The walkway was pretty darn cool, as the rocks used were ‘imported’ from the Himalayas! Most of the mud/brick walls though, were still built with the awesome song+hammering process we saw a few days before.

Inside, no pictures were allowed so we can’t really share the excitement. To be honest, like most other castles of old (think Versailles, Schonbrunn), the exterior architecture is much more grandiose than the interior. The stories though are rather interesting, but again its got a distinctive ‘influenced’ flavour. The most impressive parts of the interior are the stupas of passed Dalai Lamas and Banchengs. Specifically, the stupa of the 5th Dalai Lama, which apparently uses over 3700KG of gold in addition to countless precious gems. Seriously, there is so much gold used in the stupas, it feels like it was bronze and nothing special at all!

Interesting Facts:

  • The label, Dalai Lama was ‘officially’ granted to the 3rd Dalai Lama by then Mongol ruler, and was posthumously applied to the 1st and 2nd.

  • The exterior ‘red’ parts of the Potala Palace is actually made of grain stalks mixed with Tibetan medicine! It can withstand 500years of wear and tear and earthquakes!!

  • Potala Palace was created by the 5th Dalai, whom unified Tibet both religiously and politically

  • It is now a museum, and not a place of worship.
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Day 78: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 3rd

Being sick is all part of the process of travelling, but being sick in high altitudes seem to complicate things. The biggest difference is that recovery rates are slloooowww! Jiajia’s been sick ever since riding that bus from Yushu into Xining, and hasn’t recovered since and seems to have gotten worst.

We were planning for a 17-day trip around the rural parts of Tibet (Ali region) with an average elevation of well over 4200m! The trail is bare bones, without roads and very limited modern day facilities such as hospitals. To be on the safe side, we probably need to get better before heading out.

So we went to the hospital, got everything checked out and got some prescription. The one difference in visiting the doctor in China is that, they like to do IV drips. Thinking it being the fastest way to recovery, we gladly followed suit! And coming up with a minor cough, we thought we might as well both get the treatment just to be ‘safe’. Continue reading

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Day 77: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 2nd

To visit Potala Palace, you have to line up the day before for the next day’s ticket. Sleeping in, we missed out on buying tickets, some people actually start lining up at 5am, but we hear tickets are still for sale at 10am so we’ll sleep in a bit for another day =)

We took a bus up to Drepung monastery, and after a brisk walk up (which monastery isn’t set aside on top of a mountain?), we were welcomed by a massive gate and a ticket booth asking us for $60/person. One nifty way of travelling within China is that, they’ve always seemed to have a way to get in for free! So we turned away from the entrance and started walking along the local Tibetan village dirt roads up the mountain. At the top of the mountain we were greeted by our friends who showed us the way =)

The problem was, the main entrance way was about 3km downhill from the actual monastery, and there’s ticket hoarders everywhere!! We got halfway up towards the monastery past what resembles a small peasant shopping alley where locals sold their grossly overpriced wares, but were quickly spotted by an officer in a cowboy hat, so we had no choice but to walk backwards on the dirt road. Not wanting to waste our efforts, the 6 of us stepped off the dirt road from the shopping alley, and into a dried up river in an attempt to flank the monastery as the river cuts through the back end. As we all dropped down into the river, we heard this strange laughter that scared us a bit, but looking backwards we didn’t see anybody out there to catch us. So we beat on, hiking up along the river-bed where poop (human), old scripture paper and single shoes lay. Continue reading

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Day 74: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 1st

To most, Lhasa is really a magical place. Some arrive with their loved ones, some arrive to forget certain loved ones, some arrive with the sense of victory whilst conquering the treacherous roads, some arrive to pay their utmost respect to the holiest land in their hearts. Most importantly, whenever people return to Lhasa, all of their hopes and dreams are filled to the brim, and nobody leaves without having the city touch their hearts.

Seriously, this place is pretty freakin’ interesting. The most interesting part is the people you meet here. People arrive in Lhasa with some sort of alternative mindset and are extremely welcoming. Here’s a quick summary of people we’ve met.

Sharing our 6 bedroom hostel is

-An artist from Hong Kong. Not quite sure what he paints, but he definitely got the perverted long hair and ‘artsy’ glasses to match with.
-A pair of girls who are sharing a bed (because there’s not enough beds in the hostel), and apparently in love but can only meet once a year.

Random people we met:

-A well travelled older gentleman from Hong Kong we met at a restaurant, whose been coming to Lhasa for the past 10 years. And I quote “There is not a place you can name that I’ve never been.”
-Two guys from Jiangsu who are best friends after playing DOTA
-A 22 year old Chinese herbal medicine whole-seller, who repeated Grade 3 three times, and gave up school afterwards.
-Multiple groups of riding their bikes into Lhasa

The city itself is small, extremely walkable, and centralized mostly around the infamous Potala Palace and the Peaceful Liberation Monument Square, which is bisected by “Beijing Middle Road”. It actually reminded us of Tiananmen Square in Beijing, but instead of the Forbidden Palace its the Potala Palace. During the day, its impression is full of grandeur and a not-so-impressive white. BUT, when we headed to view the night views, the views were breathtaking and pictures do absolutely no justice to it.

Not sure exactly how to pinpoint it, as it may be a combination of the cops/military stations every 100m, or the infinite amount of Tibetans praying around town, or maybe the numerous cozy coffee shops, the feeling of being in a ‘sensitive’ area, and multitude of a wide array of cuisine, but there’s one thing that’s certain. Lhasa is amazing.

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