Posts Tagged With: Tibet

Day 98: Samye Monastery (桑耶寺) – September 23rd

Deciding at midnight that we would take the detour to Shannan, we asked around and found out the bus departs “some time before 730am”….well that’s very accurate. Waking up at 5:30am, we made it out the door by 6 and arrived at the bus stop at 6:15am. Problem was, nothing was open and there was nothing to eat, and we were super tired so we fell asleep pretty quickly. By 7:45am, the bus finally started but didn’t stop us from continuing our nap time.

We arrived at Samye, a neat little monastery town with everything owned by the monastery, but moved on to another bus to take us up to Qingpu Self-Study Area (). The Qingpu area is nested within the mountains with a spectacular view overlooking the Yarlung Tsampo river, with practitioners carving out small caves where they’d stay for any period of time from 3-weeks to 3-years! The interesting part is that, most of the people on the bus are NOT tourists, but rather local Tibetans paying homage to the practitioners studying in solitary caves. The biggest reason why this area is famous is because it is said that Guru Rinpoche achieved buddhahood in a cave at the very top of the mountain.

Due to another allergy-attack, we didn’t make it all the way up to the mountain, but visited several other relics left behind by other respected boddhisattvas. The neatest one was the practice cave of 马头明王, which was ‘heavily guarded’ by three kind nuns. After visiting the cave, we walked out and they were sitting there, eating steamed potatoes and offered us a few! We sat down, ate some potatoes as we tried to communicate with their Tibetan while we spoke Mandarin. After sharing a few laughs (about what, we’re not sure), and being invited to stay with them for the evening, we left with a small token gift from the nuns.

Back down the foothills of Samye town, we met two other travelers whom we dined with. Both were our age, One was a girl who actually had a son that was 9years old, and another was a fellow from Beijing, who declared himself to have a strong Buddhist-sense and talked nonstop about his miraculous stories relating to Buddhism. After a while, we phased out and stopped giving a fck. After dinner though, we trekked together through Samye monastery. Without much light as the sun sets rather quickly, and we were soon spotted by nothing but moonlight. On our way out though, our friend from Beijing noticed something interesting: As we made our way towards the exist, resting in the skies right above the main temple was a ‘dragon’! It was pretty cool, but it was made less impressive by the fellow’s constant mention of supernatural-powers.

Finally saying goodbye, we made our way back to the hotel. We stayed at the Samye Monastery Hotel, in a 4-person dorm, as we’re used to staying in dorms to save a few bucks. When we got back to our room, we were greeted by two Tibetan ladies who were probably here to pay homage to Qingpu and Samye. Problem is, their long journey here can be felt in the air by the strong odour exerted by their weary feet….. They also had this strange habit of fuming their blankets with incense. We got over the air of the room and snuggled into the amazing comforts of our Feathered Friends bags, but as we started to doze off into the night, our neighbours started to do their evening prayers!! They probably went on for about an hour and finally resting at 11pm…. before waking up at 6am before the sun came up and started talking LOUDLY for about 3hrs until 9am. Uhhhhh, oh well. Time for us to wake up =P

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Day 97: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 22nd

After staying in Lhasa for so long, we finally went to ‘other’ part of the “Historic Ensemble of Polata Palace”, the famous Jokhang Monastery (大昭寺). Built originally in 640s by Songtsan Gampo as a place to house Shakyamuni’s figure brought over by his two popular wives, one from inner China and another from Nepal.

Now, the monastery is the most important site of pilgrimage for Buddhists as they walk/prostrate (NOT to be confused with prostate) their way from thousands of kms away into the city of Lhasa, the Jokhang temple is their final destination…..if they actually make it. Many people can’t survive the treacherous journey, and die due to fatigue, severe cold or slipping into the rivers that line the roads into Lhasa. Its hard to describe what a prostration is, and its even harder to describe how difficult it is actually making the pilgrimage. And everyday, at the front of the monastery you’d see hundreds of Tibetans performing prostrations. From the young, to the elderly, male or female (but mostly elderly female), they all continue this tradition with a sense of fervor like no other.

The monastery doesn’t allow pictures and was rather small (compared to Potala Palace), but we managed to spent a good couple hours there listening to other people’s tour guides talk about the history and stories of the palace. Within the grand temple, the architecture is styled in a more Nepalese manner (see post from Jilong), and its most important relic is a ‘equal-sized’ statue of a 12 year old Shakyamuni decorated with gold. Tibetans were allowed to walk up close to the small, heavily guarded enclosure. Everyone else, unless if you have a ‘permit’ saying you’re a devout Buddhist, would require donating a small fee of $9000RMB which includes a small cup of gold paint (made with actual gold) for you to pay homage with by adding to the statue’s already gold body.

Unfortunately, most of whats left in the grand temple are actually remakes as most of the originals were either sacked or destroyed through time as different groups moved through the area. One crazy story: Not all pilgrims can make it into Jokhang, and as such other pilgrims have a unspoken responsibility of carrying a teeth of dead pilgrims with them. If they were to make it to Jokhang, they would take the teeth and gnaw it into a crevass of the columns in Jokhang to represent that the deads’ spirit has also made it to Jokhang, sometimes carrying half a dozen with them. So you’ll notice, all the columns have cloth wrapped around it, so either it is not to scare off tourists, or its a myth you can’t unravel without being tackled by the army of police that patrols this place.

And because we just placed an order for our laptop charger that ‘may’ arrive in 1-5days, we took a detour from Lhasa to the region of Shannan (山南).

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Day 96: Lhasa (拉萨) – September 21st

We did nothing fun. Just rested, do some laundry and eat some Cantonese food!

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Day 95: Back to Lhasa (拉萨) – September 20th

Waking up to see the sunrise, we were on our way by 6am. The crazy thing was, our neighbours were up as well! We’re not quite sure what time they stopped singing, but it was not earlier than 1am, they got some crazy energy.

By the time we reached the mountain top, a swarm of tourists were already there with their tripods lined up one by one. Our luck with the weather didn’t end, as the clouds were thick and covered most of the light, so we didn’t get any spectacular views before leaving the lake for good and back on our way to Lhasa. Flipping back through the pictures though, it was still a very nice view, but we’ve probably seen too much through those 15 days, and it ended on a bit of a soft note.

The road back to Lhasa was quick and smooth, and the first thing we did was to buy a cell phone! At first we asked for the cheapest cell phone available, which was $199RMB (or ~$30CAD), but we slowly moved up the price range and ended up with a KingK phone worth $250RMB! Score.

We had a really great trip, and one of the best parts was being able to travel with our tour-mates and having such an awesome driver! Throughout the trip, our driver shared with us many laughs, wonderful stories of his eventful past, and even more stories of how he likes to trick his passengers if they weren’t nice, and we all had a great time! He’s earned his nickname of being the King of Ali with his crazy directions and know-how (seriously, trying to properly navigate dirt roads in grassland is not as easy as it sounds), we salute you! So for dinner, we treated our driver and his family to dinner! It was great fun and all, and we all got pretty drunk off Lhasa beer (which is possibly the best beer we’ve tasted in China so far!). And as a parting gift, the driver’s son gave us a rock he picked up at the Everest Base Camp….which has a fossilized sea conch inside!! Cool!

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Day 94: Namucuo (纳木措) – September 19th

On the last leg of the trip, we were out of the backcountry and back into the modern world with PAVED ROADS! We had a relaxing milk tea lunch in the middle of a courtyard before heading back to the road to the last sacred lake of the trip, 纳木措.

The lake itself is a rather popular day-trip spot for tourists visiting Lhasa, but we have to say after seeing all the beautiful lakes of the Ali region, we were a bit underwhelmed. It’s also been a while since we’ve seen so many tourists (not necessarily a good thing)!! So despite being in the middle of nowhere, phone reception was ridiculously good, but prices of everything was very high… and it’ll probably get higher as they continue to ‘improve’ the area. Sometimes though, things are better left simple.

Being a sacred lake, you can already guess what we’re about too do…we’ll walk around the mountain that overlooks the lake! This time, our Tibetan drivers joined us for the trip around. It was a rowdy good time filled with yaks, harnessing wild horses, climbing through rock crevasses and exploring old caves.

We tried to catch a quick meal before climbing to the top of the mountain to see the sunset. Problem is, while we walked up it started hailing sideways, and there wasn’t much left to see so we returned back to town…. until we realized our phone was missing!!! After a furious search, and the restaurant owners help, we concluded that it was definitely stolen and gave up hope…. so now we’ve both lost our phones! Oh well…won’t let it ruin our mood!

Being a lakeside “resort”, there weren’t much in terms of night time activities and we were in our beds by 10:30pm. The problem is though, the overpriced room we stayed in was actually a room within a portable, and we could hear EVERYTHING that happened next door. To our left, was a bunch of snoring uncles, and to our right was a group of over-aged ladies acting like it was a teenagers slumber partying…. giggling, gossiping and SINGING OLDIES SONGS. Ear plugs are a travelers best friend….. (the next morning, I had the privilege of bumping into them and they looked exactly as they sounded…annoying).

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Day 93: Bange (班戈县) – September 18th

Without knowing it, we were already on the last leg of our Ali trip and it definitely is a bittersweet kind of feeling. You’re sort of glad going back into the city but missing out on the scenery and camaraderie with our tour-mates.

Leaving the town early, we were on the road in one of the few places where Tibetan Antelopes were known to wander around. Along with us, there were three other SUVs that were on the road with us. Have to say, having good tour-mates is really important, as you’re sort of stuck with them for an extended period of time, having to eat, talk and sleep in the same room with them everyday! We’re really glad we met up with the outgoing couple from Shenzhen and not some annoying sob who can’t stop taking pictures of himself/herself and being the first person to express their opinion (which is the only one that matters) on everything and anything. Yay!

And what’s also important when traveling in Tibet?? A good driver, and we lucked out with a REALLY good driver? This guy does it all, he’s got mad skills when it comes to off-road driving, knows where the non-existent roads are in a maze of mountains, AND he’s got an awesome sense of humour. The most important trait though was in full force today, as his eagle-eye vision spotted us a few Tibetan Antelopes far away in the horizon! He quickly stopped for us to take a peak through his binoculars, and while we were still staring in amazement at how majestic these animals looked, the rest of the three other SUVs whizzed by without ANY knowledge that there were wild animals within sight. SUCKERS! Continue reading

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Day 92: Nima (尼玛县) – September 17th

The clouds never cleared, so we slept in without catching the sunrise. Our recently added tour mates, four seniors in their 60s, did not have such a nice time. Being old and probably wealthy, they have a certain ‘expectation’ when it comes to food and sleep, so sleeping in a 8-person room with a crappy bed while the 27 dogs bark non-stop well into the night made it hard for them. Old people, not enough sleep = Cranky. Us, our the other hand, woke up well rested and was in no rush to head to the next destination, which was only a brief 3hr drive away!

We wandered around the village, which is known as a high-altitude oasis, and it definitely lives up to its name! Despite altitude being 4800m and overlooking a marvelously scenic lake and glaciers, it was fertile enough to have its own farm fields! It just happened to be harvest time!! There’s something incredibly charming about autumn colours of yellow wheat fields with a glacier backdrop, while a random sheep munches on green leaves on the ground. We helped ourselves to some turnips on the dirt ground, which tastes sweeter than an apple, but couldn’t find anything else edible =P

After lunch, we headed up to the NORTH village, which was also built over another lake and surrounded by glaciers. Seriously, if this was anywhere else in the world, you’d be paying $500USD to stay a night at the resort with a view like this….but we’ve been seeing this everyday.. =)

Arriving in the town of Nima, which actually means SUN in Tibetan while it just sounds plain funny in mandarin, we did what Tibetans would do when they had time… and sat in a tea-house drinking milk tea! Having electricity, it’s a very welcome back into the first world for a quick recharge.

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Day 91: Wenbu South (文部南村) – September 16th

Another morning, another beautiful day to admire the scenery. To kick things off, we arrive at Jiarenamucuo (戛热哪母措), which may possibly be the best we’ve seen so far. Climbing up to the top of a nearby hill, you can literally sit here for hours on end to soak it all in. So we did…

There’s something special about these high-altitude lakes, whether it be the overlooking glaciers that add a touch of serene beauty, or the rock particles that creates a ghastly blue no camera can ever show you… so I really won’t go on and on about how nice these things are, you may just have to come here yourself. Oh, but do it soon, before they start fencing up the lakes and charging an arm and a leg for looking at something mother nature gave us.

…so after a day of driving pass lakes (fortunately, again), we finally arrive at Wencun South, which was situated right next to Dongreyongcuo (档热雍措). The village is the SOUTH village, because there’s a NORTH village which is Buddhist, while the south village believes in Bon. We stayed at a local homestay, which was operated by the daughter of a well-respected Bon-priest. Arriving early in the afternoon, our other tour-mates did what any other Chinese person would do next to a beautiful lake….drink beer + play cards!!

For dinner, we took over their kitchen and cooked up all the veggies we bought back in town (villages != town, towns actually have places to spend your money) in Renduo. Without ANY sort of spices, we (i.e. Jiajia) cooked up a meal for 10 people with nothing but salt and a single stove-head. Respect.

At night, it started raining, but this proposed no issue except for a rather interesting one. The washroom is ‘al fresco’, which was little more than a mud hut without any roof….hahaha, but when you got to go you got to go. Just make sure you don’t step on any of the 27 dogs that wandered the premise in pitch darkness, as the village had no electricity…

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