Nepal

Day 128: Ghyaru (Annapurna Circuit) – October 23rd

Waking up in the early morning, it was extra difficult to climb out of our sleeping bag as it’s gotten ridiculously cold as we trek further into the mountains. Checking the temperature, it was only 6C in the room! Brushing and washing is now a freezing cold chore as the water is probably colder than 6C. That’s life in the mountains I guess!

The morning walks are usually the easiest, as you’re well rested from last night and you have a belly full of breakfast (which has been massive pancakes almost everyday!) to keep you going. Before you know it, you’ve walked 2hrs and hit a stop. This stop was slightly different, as the town was actually only 1 hotel instead of the 5-6 you’d usually see, but the best part was this village has an apple farm! It’s been a while since we’ve had fruits, and we need some vitamins. It also helps that the apples were crispy and delicious. Yay.

We continued to trek higher and higher in altitude, and you can feel the vegetation change. The trees become taller, and evergreens start to dominate the landscape, and glaciers slowly come into view. Think so far, this part of the trek has been the nicest, most “in-our-element” kind of trek, until we realized “Oh boy, this looks totally like Canada eh?”. And for lunch, we ate at a hotel built out of wooden logs, and one tourist made a loud remark “Wow, wooden log cabins, now we’re really in Canada!”. Turns out she was Australian. Continue reading

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Day 127: Chame (Annapurna Circuit) – October 22nd

As we get deeper into the circuit and higher in elevation, it gets cold real quick once the sun sets. Dining close to dawn at 6:45am, we had some corn flakes with apples. I’m not quite sure how it works, but corn flakes in the middle of Nepal’s mountain ranges seem pretty impressive to me. Problem was, I got pretty hungry pretty quickly.

Today’s walk required an elevation change of about 1100m, and knowing this it made every descent twice as painful, as you know later on you’d have to make up for it! After a steep climb up hill, we stopped at the top of the section with a rest stop for porters. Built out of several wooden wooden logs put clumsily together, it looked like those drug manufacturing sites you see on Discovery Channel with a wooden fire burning some blackened pots and selling what looked like to be Nepalese donuts. The craziest part though: they have Snickers for sale. Whoever is the sales guy for Snickers, they sure are doing a good job, considering there’s nothing else remotely recognizable or appetizing that you’d want to eat after gasping for air in the middle of a mountain trail.

Snickers seems to be the food of choice in the hills, along with Red Bull. Talk about a sugar high…. Continue reading

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Day 126: Dharapani (Annapurna Circuit) – October 21st

Wanting to make distance today, we wanted to leave at 7am, but problem was our porter was still nowhere to be seen. A bit upset at the lack of commitment, we left about 45mins past our scheduled departure.

Despite the early morning, the trails were already full of people. Today was an uphill climb, and the trails have turned into a dusty, rocky road. As the tourism industry continues to grow, that also increases the facilities and goods needed and the infrastructure must follow suit. Before long, roads will probably be connected around the Annapurna Circuit, relegating trekking to a less popular alternative than the 2-day scenic Jeep ride. Why would anyone want to walk 6hrs a day for 12days to see some you can see in 2 days?

We stopped at 10am for a rest and some tea and biscuits (how English, I must say!), while being harassed by clucking chickens and a drunk man. Again, this was 10am. Right now, it is the biggest festival of the year in Nepal, Dasain, which is equivalent to CNY or Christmas, but getting drunk at 10am is just too crazy for any standard. Continue reading

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Day 125: Ghermu (Annapurna Circuit) – October 20th

Waking up at 4am to the sounds of people creaking their doors open, and wandering about outside past the paper thin walls, we fell in and out of consciousness for another two hours before succumbing to the noise. Also, we ordered breakfast to be served at 6:30am so we needed to wake up anyways. Breakfast was a delicious apple pancake, omelette and a type of Nepalese naan bread while sitting atop a verandah, with clear views of a snow-capped mountain far off in the horizon. Compared to other hiking trips we’ve had, this is luxury! Continue reading

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Day 124: Bhulbhule (Annapurna Circuit) – October 19th

Too excited for our trek, we barely got 3hrs of sleep before waking up in a daze at 530am. Our porter met us at our hotel, and a short taxi ride got us to the bus station which was already jammed pack with people. As the Dasain festival continues, workers in Kathmandu begin the journey back home.

The bus station was hustling and bustling, and it felt like we were at the heart of it all, weaving between locals yelling for tickets and carts selling bananas. So far we’ve seen two fruits available for sale, bananas and apples. We were glad we had a porter to guide us through this as all the signage was in Nepalese, if there were any at all. The buses don’t have any specific numbers, or signs telling you where they’re going, but people hopped on and off, paying the bus attendants whenever they were asked.

Bus attendants have earned our respect. Hopping around in flip flops, he’d climb to the roof of the bus to pack people’s baggage, and the bus would just drive along at a slow speed. He’d climb down the ladder and hop onto the ground continue calling for more people to get onto the bus (no tickets required). Once full, and we don’t mean all the seats were full kind of full, but that every nook and cranny was filled from end to end and people were literally standing at the doorway, before the bus would start moving. The bus would reverse out into the nightmarish traffic while the attendant helped leading the way with rhythmic pounding on the sides of the bus. And once the car starts moving forward, the attendant would hop onto the moving bus and stand at the doorway, with his body being outside of the bus. All of this was done in a natural, fluid motion like a dance of sorts. Hop off, run around yelling for passengers, and catch the forward moving bus if nobody would come. Continue reading

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Day 123: Kathmandu (加得满都) – October 18th

Alright, our time of slacking has come to an end as we continued being the good tourists we are. Jiajia is still recovering but the main motivation is we booked our trek to the Annupurna Circuit. Annapura is another 8000m tall mountain, but it is nearly impossible to climb with a fatality rate of over 40%…. we’re trekking around the mountain ranges, and this trek is rated as one of the best all around treks for its vast scenery!

Hankering for some Chinese food, we went back to the same place for lunch before heading to Pashupatinath, one of the most sacred Hindi temples in the Kathmandu Valley. No foreigners were allowed in the temple, but the surrounding areas were just as interesting. Situated on the sacred river of Bagmati, the temple is a shrine to Shiva where a sacred lingam resides in the temple. Walking into the temple, an overwhelming smoke smothers the area (more on this later). Photogenic sadhus sit around, welcoming anyone to come for a picture, but for a small donation of course. Sadhus sit there from morning til dark, contemplating the deep spirituality of the world and legally smoking pot to help them relief pain and to aid in meditation. No comment…..

Since the main temple was banned for us foreigners, we can only stroll around the riverside and take in the interesting history, lingam temples and architecture that lays here, in addition to the dead bodies. Continue reading

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Day 121: Kathmandu (加得满都) – October 16th

Today is a good tourist day.

Kathmandu is really small, and almost everything is within walking distance. That being said, our walking distance has now extended to anything within 5km. It’s just nicer to take a walk through local neighbourhoods and see what they look gives us a better pulse on the city.

Walking from our hotel to Swayambunath, aka Monkey Temple, we got a feel for the city and we aren’t too keen of what we see. Going westward from the tourist district the city does not get any more inspiring, with the continuation of the 70s looking stores (sewing machines, old car parts, craggy paint but no North Fake gear). Crossing over a bridge and over a river, we see an unpleasant stream of water full of garbage, and pigs floundering at the shores. Eagles (or falcons?) soar around the river, occasionally dipping down for a drink or catching flies, we aren’t sure. Continue reading

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Day 121: Kathmandu (加得满都) – October 16th

We’re not very good tourists.

Waking up, we had breakfast in the cozy hotel courtyard and then began our day searching for a suitable trekking company to provide us with a porter for our 2-week hike through the Annapurna circuit. The number of travel agencies in Thamel was told to us to hover around 400. That pretty much means when you walk through Thamel, for every 5 stores there are 2 fake North Face stores, 2 travel agencies and one random store…. it’s ridiculously overwhelming.

Hiring a porter isn’t as easy as it sounds, because you don’t want to be stuck hiking for 17days with some guy you don’t like. Prices also varied from a quoted $12/day to $50/day!!! W T F? After meeting all kinds of different people, the uncle of a fake North Face shop owner, a pro-salesman who wouldn’t let us meet the porter, a crazy outdoor junkie who sits on the Nepal rescue team board and was busy with the aftermath of a guide who died on a peak, and finally we settled with this guy whom we ignored twice on the street until the third time… Continue reading

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