Wandering around the old town of Lijiang, it feels almost like a dream come true for all tourists. Built at the foothills of Yulong Glacier Mountain, the area is sculpted around a series of flowing rivers, stone bridges and built over the heritage of local Naxi people. Stores are all meticulously designed from their catchy names, to their crafts and wares. Coffee shops all use neatly designed cups, with cozy handcrafted goods or ‘artifacts’ from local Naxi people. Almost everything looks so magical, it’s like a tourist heaven made by Walt Disney! Continue reading
China
Day 109: Lijiang (丽江) – October 4th
Deciding in the morning that we didn’t really want to continue paying outrageous prices to stay in an uninteresting place, we decided to pack and move on to the next stop along the road to Kunming. The next stop is the even more popular destination, the ancient town of Lijiang.
We took a 1pm bus, and despite it being only a 174km, with severe traffic it was more parking lot than anything, and we eventually got arrived in Lijiang at 8pm, about twice as long as what it should’ve been.
The Ancient Town of Lijiang, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a much better place than Shangri-La, even if it was my first impression. The town is much bigger than most places we’ve been, and the old town is only a small portion of it. We managed to find a hostel and reserved a room despite it being ridiculously busy season. Grabbing a typical bowl of yunnan rice noodles, we headed to the hostel and slept.
One thing we we have to say, is that the hostels in China are spectacular. Clean rooms, friendly prices and coziness is almost mandatory, but they also have spacious common areas for beers and meeting friends. The best part, is they all have their own ‘selling points’, and are decorated fabulously. Compared with hostels in Canada, where it feels a comfy cottage exterior with an hospital-like interior with no points at all for coziness or comfort. Next time anyone travels in China, we highly recommend staying at any hostels!!
- Shangri-La street. As far as you can see, it’s all hotels
- altitude effect on chips
Day 108: Shangri-La (香格里拉) – October 3rd
The old town of Shangri-La is MUCH better than the new town. That being said, it was still a bit touristy, with ‘local specialties’ such as yak jerky, Tibetan knives and other tourist-trap goods every other store. Within though, there were quite a few gems of neat little handicraft stores and coffee shops. Our favorite though, was definitely Helen’s Pizzeria, where we stopped for lunch. The owner is an extremely nice Italian man who married a Naxi-local and decided to stay. Everything was made in house, the pizza dough, the tagliatelle, the tomato sauce, even the gelato! We had a long awaited Italian meal..delicious! Washing the pizza down with a strong Lavazza coffee and finishing off with a slice of cake + scoops of gelato, it definitely hit the spot. Continue reading
Day 107: Shangri-La (香格里拉) – October 2nd
Saying farewell to the comforts of Salt Well, we hit the road again with an 8am bus into Yunnan province to the town of Deqen. This region is famous for its 梅里mountain range, with a small town built off the side of the cliff right before Deqen, dedicated to anyone wanting a spectacular view.
Note: Meili Mountain is one of the four sacred mountains in Tibetan culture, and it is said that if the moment you enter Deqen and you can see the full view of the whole mountain range without cover, you would have good luck for a year!!
We weren’t super lucky, but the mountain-gods were good enough to us and the clouds miraculously opened up a small window for us to see the tallest peak of the ranges, Kawakarpo (卡瓦格博)!!! So we still feel that we’re going to get some good luck =) Continue reading
Day 106: Salt Well (盐井) – October 1st
Waking up to the sound of the motel owner yelling through the door “Are you still here?”, we quickly scrambled to wash up and pack our things. The town of Mangkang had little to offer in terms of tourism, but was a fork in the road for people entering/exiting Tibet, as eastward you would continue to Sichuan, while southward you’d be heading towards Yunnan.
By the time we ate lunch, we’ve already missed the bus to Deqen by 6 hours. There was actually only ONE southbound road, and we figured we’ll just have to hitchhike our way down. Starting at about 1pm, we waited at the side of the road hoping someone would pick us up. Truck drivers were nice and usually slowed down to explain to us why they can’t pick us up (i.e. Stopping at the garbage grounds up ahead, not enough room) while every car would just bypass us. And after talking to so many people, we thought hitchhiking in/out of Tibet was easy!! Continue reading
Day 105: Bus/Mangkang (芒康) – September 30th
This day was not a good day. Again.
Waking up to the sound of a rattling bus engine, it was 5am and we were barely conscious. The rest was short and we’re now back on the dirt road winding, with our backs aching at every bump as we’ve been cramped on this piece of shit for 18hours.
Fast forward to 1pm, we arrived at a ‘truck stop’ town for lunch. The town was a brisk 4-6hrs away, so we were eating as quick as we can, thinking we can get there before dinner. Everybody had the same feeling, and were eating at a lightning speed. Problem was, when everyone was done, the drivers were still waiting for their dishes and taking their sweet time. One of the travelers barked “Maybe we should speed things up”, and the driver casually waved him off saying “You can’t rush a meal.”. So about 20 people were waiting for about 1hr as the drivers went on feasting on their freshly cooked dishes (while everyone else had pre-cooked dishes or noodles to save time). We finally departed at 2pm! Yayyy, back on the road and back to our cramped bed…. Continue reading
Day 104: Bus (巴士) – September 29th
This day was not a good day.
The bus terminal was closed by the time we arrived the previous day, and we had NO clue what time the bus would leave Linzhi to our next destination of Mangkang. Some people said 8am, some people said 7am. So just to be safe, the bus terminal opens at 7am and we got there right when it opened. Once we asked about the bus to Mangkang, we found out it leaves at 11am! So we idled around until the bus was ready.
The bus was a sleeper-bus headed to Chongqing for a 4-day journey, and we were expected to arrive tomorrow afternoon. Being a sleeper, there were no seats but just many ‘beds’, we’ve sat in these before but in Vietnam, and we have to say the one in Vietnam was much cleaner and better… Each ‘bed/seat’ was provided a blanket and a pillow, but the cotton that covered the brownish looking blanket looked tattered and musty. We looked to the sides and couldn’t help but notice the newer, cleaner and comfier looking buses that dotted the parking lot and figured how we managed to be lucky enough to get on the shittiest one… Continue reading
Day 103: Linzhi (林芝) – September 28th
We’re leaving Tibet and heading south-east to the province of Yunnan. Problem is, Kunming (our last Chinese destination) is about 2200km away and being very close to the National Holiday where citizens get about a week off in China, the number of tourists increased exponentially. On our way, we plan on stopping over at Shangri-la, Lijiang and Dali before finally arriving at Kunming.
Originally, there was a bus straight to Shangri-la, but the problem was that the buses from Lhasa for the next 3 days were already sold out!! So, our only option was to take the bus one stop at a time (since there’s only one road between Lhasa and Shangri-la), and our first stop would be Linzhi (aka Bayi or “Eight-One”, literally named after August 1st…haha strange), the supposed “lush valley and flowing rivers” region of Tibet. Considering the sparse vegetation and high altitude of other areas of Tibet, this could be easily understood since Linzhi has a much lower altitude and is situated close to the Yarlung river.
On the 8hr bus ride, we were once again blessed with Jacky Chan and his high-flying ways. Once he was done, the next movie was….. Aftershock (唐山大地震)…. okay? It was a great movie but not wanting to cry our eyes out, we got the driver to switch to music. The driver has some good taste in music, playing a good mix of old music remixed with a techno-background and some Tibetan songs.
Getting into town, it was pretty late and there wasn’t much to see. The town itself is situated in some pretty nice land with good views of the surrounding mountains, but like most other towns in Tibet its rather new and uninteresting. The best part about this place though….is that we found a congee place! At first we were a bit skeptical, but our desire of not wanting to eat Sichuan food overwhelmed everything and we risked our chances and were extremely happy we did!!! Yeahhhh.
- Farewell, Potala
- Rock in the river, enroute to Linzhi. It’s famous, but not sure why.



