Argentina

Day 256: El Calafate – Argentina – Feb 28th

We got to El Calafate pretty late last night, but that doesn’t mean we could sleep in as booked ourselves a tour of the Perito Moreno glacier, part of the South Patagonia ice mass, which as mentioned before is the third largest reserve of fresh water in the world… behind Antarctica and Greeland!!! It’s MASSIVE!

The glacier is situated perfectly in a national park, and they designed it beautifully with massive pathways overlooking the glacier, with benches every couple hundred meters for your viewing pleasure. We took a boat tour, but it really wasn’t ‘necessary’ as you get this most amazing view even on the pathways. The most awesome part about this glacier is that it is very active, and you can watch the glacier calve massive chunks of ice right into the lake, creating a thunderous clap even for the smallest of chunks! The glacier itself is mesmerizing and very attractive, leaving both of us giddy with happiness as we walked around and saw/hear the thunderous claps of ice….

Back in El Calafate, the town is small but has all the modern-day comforts you’d need. It reminded us a bit of Banff, with wooden log houses and quiet streets outside the main drag. We spent the afternoon sitting in the sun, drinking artesanal beers and eating steak along the main road. Pretty sweet =)

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Day 255: Bus to El Calafate – Argentina – Feb 27th

For the third day in a row, we had to wake up before 5am to catch a bus/plane. Being so far south has its disadvantages when it comes to getting out of there, and for us that means a really really long bus ride back north. We were headed up to El Calafate in the Patagonia region of Argentina, but we wouldn’t get there until midnight, making for a 19hr bus ride.

We had to cross the Straits of Magellan, which was much narrower and calm than was expected, and the ferry service makes it almost pedestrian compared to what it meant to cross the Straits a couple hundred years ago. Ahhh, technology.

We had a 4-hour layover in Rio Gallegos, one of the least pretty towns we’ve seen so far in Argentina, but most likely due to the poverty-stricken areas we walked through before giving up and walking back to the bus station. Gladly, there was a Carrefour supermarket next to the bus stop, and we did some shopping! Luckily, free wi-fi saves the day and we managed to blow a lot of time just surfing the net. It’s really surprising the places you’d find wi-fi when you’re traveling, especially when you think back home that you can’t even find paid wi-fi at some places!

Mexico: Free wi-fi in PARKS….yes, sitting next to the fountain with vendors selling ice cream to little kids, you can surf the internet.
Rio Gallegos: Free wi-fi in the bus station
Honduras: Free wi-fi in most places in the Bay Islands….. it’s an ISLAND IN THE CARRIBEAN!
Miami: No free wi-fi even at airport!!!!!

Anywho, we got into town around midnight, checked into our hotel who didn’t really seem like they wanted the business, telling us that they were full unless we had reservations (which we did), but from the key box it was obvious they were barely half full. Hot shower, and we were on the bed napping like babies!

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Day 254: Ushuaia – Argentina – Feb 26th

Alan got to the airport at 3:45am to take the 4:45am flight down to Ushuaia, but again due to weather conditions the flight was delayed for about 2hrs, leaving him with a really long nap in the Buenos Aires Jorge Newberry airport lounge. Getting into Ushuaia, the town is totally different from what you’d imagine, with a beautiful airport resembling a rustic log cabin and some pretty lakes surrounded by scenic mountains, it was a city like no other. It also has a casino in the middle of the downtown!!!! Ha ha. Feeling a bit like Banff, Canada, this place is touristy but with a bit of charm, probably because it claims itself as the “end of the world”!!! It was a bit strange though, to see some teas, chocolates and gourmet foods coming out of this region as we’d imagine this place to be inhospitable, far from civilization and rugged, which it is totally the opposite of!

The day was spent running around working errands to prepare for our BIG trip to an awesome place. Dinner was a DELICIOUS fuegino lamb, which is a breed of sheep particular to the region and is delicious. And it also helps that Argentinean wine is delicious, and goes perfectly well with a good hunk of meat. 

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Day 253: Ushuaia/Buenos Aires– Argentina – Feb 25th

Being separated for the first in many months, Jiajia flew into Ushuaia with a 7am flight, but because of the crazy weather down in the southern end of America, her flight had to stop in Rio Gallegos before the weather cleared out and the plane was ready to land. Alan spent the day in Buenos Aires wandering around the town, visiting gardens and museums, taking pictures, and doing some grey market deals to exchange some spending cash. 

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Day 252: Buenos Aires– Argentina – Feb 24th

Back into BA at 8am, we checked into our hostel, took a shower and was back on the streets of BA.

Like most Latin American countries, it seems to just shut down on Sundays and this time it was no different. We already booked our flights out, but to save some money we are flying separately, with Jiajia flying on the 25th and Alan flying out on the 26th. Strangely enough, this works out perfectly for us in the end.

We tried to do some cambio at the grey market, but because it was Sunday the rate was much lower, and they didn’t have enough pesos to give us!! We scrapped the idea and headed over to Recoleta, the posh neighbourhood of BA with a pretty impressive cemetery. Wandering around the streets of BA, it’s quite easy to fall in love with the city and it’s diverse settings, while somehow maintaining a bit of the charm of a smaller city.

Exploring El Ateneo, a bookstore built from an old opera house, it looks ridiculously posh and we sat there for a few hours reading some more travel books. It’s nice to see how certain cities can retain a bit of their history with something other than a restaurant. Then again, a restaurant located in an ex-opera house is pretty awesome.

And before we leave the comforts of a big city, we had one final hot pot! Yes!!! There’s hot pot in Buenos Aires!!! Afterwards, we walked along the beautiful boardwalk of Puerto Madryn, and eating some delicious ice cream to cap off our BA experience. 

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Day 251: Iguazu Falls – Argentina – Feb 23rd

Today we did the tour of the Iguazu Falls on the Argentina border. At first, we were also wondering why we would need to see the same falls twice on both sides of the border (and go through the hassle for visas and such). Looking back and comparing both experiences, it was well worth the visit to both sides, especially since Iguazu is SO far from the beaten track that you’d be really hard pressed to be back again. And, everyone that’s gone there tells us both sides are worth’d!

Over on the Brazilian side, you feel a bit more voyeuristic as you walk along the trails and peek through the thick trees in between viewing points to catch glimpses of the falls from across the Iguazu river. Here on the Argentinean side, the falls are located right below your feet as you get an up close and intimate view, feeling the rush of the water as it tumbles down into the mist below. Up until 10m from the drop-off, the river is very calm and if you were paddling down the river you wouldn’t really know what’s coming!

The falls are actually a series of over 275 smaller falls, with one massive convergence point called the Devil’s Throat (scary name!). The falls are also in two tiers, making it seem a bit excessive but also very awe-inspiring. The best part though, has to be taking the boat ride in the Argentinean side.

There are a lot of excursions not included in the park entrance on both sides, but you really have to spend all day there which we didn’t have the luxury as we only had half day on each side. It’s also mostly geared for kids? But there’s one awesome thing that everyone that’s not pregnant or clear from heart conditions should try, and that’s the speedboat adventure tour (forgot the exact name). What it is, is you hop onto a speedboat, and you to do a simple cruise around, but then you see all the crew members start to change into some waterproof gear as they prepare for ‘the shower’.

Then, with a sudden burst of power the tail dips into the water and the boat starts thrusting into the waterfalls. We purposely sat in the first row, and that rush of adrenaline, not to mention the cold shower from a waterfall 20m high is just amazing! Then… we go again at another waterfall, but this time the falls have a bit more ‘umph’ and you can feel water just blowing at your face to the point where you can’t actually open your eyes! IT WAS SO FUN!

The rest of the day we spent going all the way up to the Devil’s Throat lookout point, which was a train ride and another 20min walk before we got to the crowded lookout. The view is pretty amazing as you’re surrounded by waterfalls and mist is streaming all around you. The problem is though, pictures come out horrible because THERE IS TOO MUCH MIST!!

And to be honest, after being blasted by the waterfalls themselves, everything else just seems inferior. Iguazu Falls, despite being very touristy, is definitely worth the visit…. even if it means a 20hr bus ride and nothing else in between! And after all that….we were on our way back on the 20hr bus ride back to Buenos Aires!

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Staying at the W Patagonia

Have been too busy wandering around and taking 20hr bus rides, not much time to sort through the 300+ pictures we took.

For the next 5days we’ll be hiking through the W Trail in Patagonia… bracing some of the craziest winds and rain we’ll ever see and do about 80km from start to finish.
Should be fun!!

So when we come back, we’ll be too tired to update the blog but we’ll try =)

Here’s a glimpse of what we saw in Patagonia….. the world’s 3rd largest piece of fresh water ice, behind Antarctica and Greenland… it’s MASSIVE!

Perito Moreno glacier

Perito Moreno glacier

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Day 249: Puerto Iguazu – Argentina – Feb 21st

Rolling into the bus station at 8am, we had to take a local bus to our hostel which was inconveniently located along the freeway instead of in town. The location was poor, but the facility itself was pretty cool. Spacious and large with this extremely pretty pool in the front, it sort of made up for it. Then again, the people working there were some of the worst service staff we’ve seen so far in our travels. Horrible.

Background: Iguazu Falls is neatly situated along the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. The falls itself is a UNESCO heritage site shared by Argentina and Brazil, and to see everything this natural wonder has to offer, most people say you should visit both sides. Problem is, for Canadians you are required to have a visa! We scrambled back into town to get our visa application in, paid about $60USD/person, paid $8USD for print-outs at the hostel next door and hoped that we got our visa the next day. We were already here, and Iguazu is so far away from anything that you really don’t want to have to travel here again just to see the other side of the falls….. the perils of traveling. We’ve actually heard stories of people crossing the border without visas or even getting their passport stamped, but we asked around and that doesn’t happen anymore… so we didn’t want to risk getting shut out at the border and paid up for the stupid visa.

By the time we got everything done, it was too late to go to the Argentinean side of the falls, and we were sort of stranded in Iguazu without much to do, and to add to the fun it started pouring rain. Fun. The rain stopped and we headed out to a animal rescue centre close by. It was pretty cool as it was all privately run and worked off donations, but instead of acting like a zoo where they kept animals in captivity, they would release animals back into the wild whenever they can. Unfortunately, some wild animals were injured, domesticated and could never be returned, but at least they take good care of the animals!

It was buffet night in our hostel, and since we were living along the freeway where there was no other choice, we ate at the hostel and drank a few beers, chatting up with some people for a couple of hours before calling it a night.

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